How to Spend 3 Days in Kathmandu, Nepal
Strolling through Old Patan
After exploring Hinduism & Yoga in India and Buddhism in Bhutan, it was interesting to experience the teachings of all 3 in one country. The Kathmandu Valley in Nepal is a diverse, Himalayan metropolis of the Indian-subcontinent; which is evident from the food, to the culture, to the architecture, & to the people. Our host Prakash described Nepal the best: "Religious harmony between Buddhism & Hinduism”.
Unfortunately Kathmandu hasn’t fully recovered from the 2015 earthquake. There’s construction on every corner and the city is covered with debris from collapsed buildings. Driving through the city’s dusty traffic isn’t for the faint of heart. But your worries will dissipate once you encounter the warm, friendly Nepalese people. They say that travelers first come to Nepal for the mountains, but return for the people.
History of the Kathmandu Valley
Housing 7 World Heritage Sites and some of the most prominent pilgrimage sites in the Hindu & Buddhist worlds - the Kathmandu Valley is a conglomerate of ancient civilizations in Asia. The Kathmandu Valley once comprised of three main kingdoms: Bhaktapur, Basantapur (Kathmandu), and Lalitpur (Patan). Each kingdom had a royal palace and a designated “Durbar Square” consisting of temples, statues, and open courts. Today these 3 Durbar Squares serve as great sites to people watch and to marvel at Nepalese culture.
Newari traditions are still deeply rooted in the city. The Newars were the indigenous people and creators of the Kathmandu Valley’s historic civilization. They were known for their contributions to art, culture, literature, and cuisine in Central Asia. The city's Newari architecture - from the pagodas, stupas, and chaityas - are what makes the Kathmandu Valley one of its kind.
Where to Stay in Kathmandu
Dhakhwa House in Old Patan
The highlight of our Nepal trip was the people. Starting with the impeccable hospitality from our AirBnb hosts who treated us like family the moment we arrived. We were overwhelmed after the crazy drive from the airport - quite the transition from Bhutan's negative carbon footprint to Kathmandu's polluted air and dust masks. But the Dhakhwa family instantly eased our worries with their friendly smiles and hugs.
The Dhakhwa House is a restored Newari home located in the heart of the historical center of Old Patan. It’s quietly nested inside a courtyard making it a peaceful oasis amongst Kathmandu’s chaotic streets. The space itself is cozy, comfortable, and extremely clean. Although the Dhakhwa House is a traditional Newari home they added sleek modern touches to the space while keeping its old charm - it reminded us of a hipster/ vintage loft.
The Dhakhwa family taught us so much about their culture and community. They made such an effort to get to know us and made our stay in Old Patan incredibly pleasant. And can’t forgot about Pramila’s cooking. Her home-cooked meals were the best we had in Nepal - happy bellies, happy travelers!
What to Do in Kathmandu
OVERVIEW
DAY 1: Check in @ Dhakhwa House -> Explore Patan -> Old Durbar Square -> Dinner @ Dhakhwa House
DAY 2: Mount Everest Flight -> Monkey Temple -> Thamel -> Lunch @ Utse -> Visit the Kumari -> Explore Patan -> Dinner @ Cafe Swotha
DAY 3: Breakfast at Dhakhwa House -> Patan Musuem -> Shopping
DAY 1: Pleasure to meet you, Patan
Patan
Out of the 3 districts of the Kathmandu Valley, Patan has preserved most of its ancestral uniqueness. There are many hidden treasures to discover from Hindu temples, Buddhist stupas, and hidden courtyards. You can go back in time walking through Old Patan’s historic district - yet the hip cafes and artsy boutiques give the city a new age/ bohemian vibe.
After we settled in Dhakhwa House, Prakash walked us around the neighborhood. There are so many secret alleyways that bring you to beautiful temples and other historic sculptures. There’s always a chance to spin prayer wheels for good karma at every corner.
Patan Durbar Square
The ancient royal palace of Patan faces the bustling Durbar Square. Of all the Durbar Squares in the city, Patan’s display of Newari architecture is aesthetically the best. Unfortunately many of the temples are still under contraction due to the 2015 earthquake. But it doesn’t stop high-spirited locals from spending their days playing cards on the square’s benches and curious tourists from snapping pictures of the marvelous Newari structures.
Dinner at Dhakhwa House
We heard through the grape vine (aka AirBnb reviews) that Pramila was the best cook in town. So without any hesitation we booked a homemade Newari dinner at Dhakhwa House and it exceeded our expectations. This dinner is what the AirBnb community is all about - immersion to the local culture/ food while bonding with international travelers and locals through good conversation and stories. We’ve stayed in many AirBnbs all over the world but Prakash and Pramila’s hospitality is the best of its kind!
One of our favorite things about the Indian-subcontinent's cuisine is Thali - a platter with an assortment of small dishes served with rice. The staple of Nepali Thali (or the Nepali diet for that matter) is Daal Bhat which are lentils and rice typically served with vegetable curries. Nepali food is similar to Indian cuisine but Nepali food is much more flavorful in a less spicy and aromatic way - which is perfect for my taste. We tried several Thalis in Nepal and Pramila’s was the best. Trust me when I say that her cooking is the best Nepali food you’ll ever have in your life + it’s made with love.
Not only did dinner come with a delicious spread and amazing company, Prakash also served us his home-made Raksi which is a traditional Newari liquor. Raksi to the Nepalese is like vodka to Russians and sake to the Japanese. We aren't the biggest drinkers, but we had to try Raksi for the experience. When in Patan, right?
If you don't have the chance to stay at Dhakhwa House we highly recommend to at least book a dinner or cooking class with the lovely Pramila.
$13/ per person for Newari Kitchen Experience at Dhakhwa House
DAY 2: Nepali Elevations
Mount Everest Flight
Since we didn’t have enough time or funds for a trek, the “mountain flight" was the closest we got to peek Mount Everest.
There are several options for mountain flights, but after extensive research we booked our Everest Experience through Buddha Air. It’s a 1 hour flight through the Himalayan range from the Kathmandu Airport. There are several flights throughout the day, but we booked the first flight out since there’s always a chance of overcast.
The small/ no-frills plane fits more or less 15 passengers. Every passenger has a window seat, but some rows are better than others. So the further you are from the wings of the plane, the better. But regardless of your assigned seat, you’ll get a chance to walk up to the cockpit and see the best view of the Himalayan range and Mount Everest. Pictures don’t do the view any justice.
The Everest Experience isn’t cheap, but a trip to Nepal isn't complete without a peek of Mount Everest. Be sure to book in advance - preferably during one of your first few days just in case the flight gets rescheduled. The weather in the Himalayas has a mind of its own.
Monkey Temple
After the Mount Everest flight we took a quick taxi ride from the airport to Swayambhunath aka the Monkey Temple. The Tibetan name for the site means “sublime trees” due the variety of trees found on the hill. Hence "Monkey" Temple, the site is bombarded with monkeys casually hanging out. The Monkey Temple is a steep climb (approx. 365 stairs) but the expansive views up top are worth the achy knees. The temple is an ancient religious site for both Hindus and Buddhists + it’s one of the best views of the city.
Lunch in Thamel
All in one morning we went from the Himalayas, to hilltop temples, and to crowded city centers. After the round-trip climb to the Monkey Temple we decided to walk to Thamel since it didn’t seem too far on Google Maps. But after 30 mins of dodging dust, traffic, and occasional gypsies, we agreed that we were better off taking a taxi.
Thamel is completely different from the old city charm of Patan. Thamel is the tourist center of Kathmandu filled with trekking-gear shops, budget hotels, souvenir shops, restaurants, and bars.
Thamel is extremely commercial but has an extensive selection of traditional and international eats around town. After some quick research at a cafe, we decided to eat at Utse which is the oldest restaurant in Thamel. Utse serves delicious Tibetan food such as hotpot and momos. After all the walking we did that morning, lunch at Utse was a reward and a treat!
Visiting the Kumari
After lunch we took a taxi back to Dhakhwa House for a quick nap before we met the Kumari aka the “living goddess”. We heard so many things about the Kumari and we were too curious not to see her. After we freshened up, Prakash brought us to his community's Kumari for a blessing.
The Kumari is an interesting concept to some, but for the Nepalese, a tradition that dates back centuries. Being chosen as a Kumari is regarded as one of the highest honors in Nepal. Nepali Hindus believe the Kumari is a reincarnation of the Hindu goddess Durga. And Nepali Buddhists believe the Kumari is an embodiment of the supreme female diety Vajradevi (a Buddha).
Kumaris are pre-pubescent girls that are selectively chosen from their Newari community. The Kumari wears special clothes and makeup every day while she sits on her thrown giving blessings to devotees and visitors. She isn’t allowed to go outside (except for festival occasions) and has to be carried around since her feet aren’t allowed to touch the ground. Once the Kumari starts menstruating her reign as the living goddess ends and she goes back to the civilian world.
The old and new generations of Nepal have conflicting ideologies when it comes to the Kumari. But the Kumari is a tradition deeply rooted in the Newari culture.
Exploring Old Patan
Fun fact: Our host Prakash was the tour guide for Prince Harry when he visited Kathmandu after the 2015 earthquake (how cool, right?). So it’s safe to say that we had the best tour guide in the country. Prakash can easily be the Mayor of Patan - everyone knows him and loves him.
After we visited the Kumari, Prakash walked us around his stomping grounds. So many hidden alleyways and courtyards in Old Patan, it's like courtyard inception. It was so much fun soaking in the old city charm of Old Patan and meeting Prakash’s friendly neighbors.
The city is deeply rooted in its traditions but the city has a cool, bohemian vibe to it. We found a cute restaurant called Cafe Swotha nestled behind a restored Newari house. It felt like a European cafe but with Nepali dishes. No better way than to end our Himalayan journey with Thali!
DAY 3: Soaking in Nepal's Good Karma
Breakfast at Dhakhwa House
As much as we wanted to explore other food spots in Patan, we were completely satisfied and happy with the food at Dhakhwa House. So we reserved breakfast with Pramila and Prakash in their cozy kitchen.
Breakfast was incredible as expected. It was a perfect ending to our stay since all we wanted to do was eat Pramila’s delicious food and spend more time with the Dhakhwas. The Dhakhwas were more than just Airbnb hosts, they became family!
Shopping in Patan
Patan is known as the “City of Beauty” which is evident in its world renowned Thanka art and artisinal metalwork found around town. Patan is the best place to find unique trinkets and authentic art in Kathmandu. From Tibetan singing bowls, to handicraft jewelry, to handwoven boho sweaters, and to Thanka paintings - we did some retail damage to end off our trip!
Patan Musuem
Patan Museum is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to learning about Nepali culture. But the highlight of the Patan Museum was when my mom lost her wallet for a good twenty minutes. She left her wallet in a public bathroom and didn’t realize till an hour later. Thankfully two Nepali women working next door found her wallet and did everything they can to return it to my mom. Talk about luck, but since we were in a Buddhist nation - talk about good karma. Not only were we impressed with Nepalese hospitality, but also by the people's integrity.
Chillin' with Patan's golden girls
Minus the air pollution, honking, and complete chaos, what we loved most about Kathmandu was the people. The Nepali people are some of the nicest people we've ever encountered in the world. We can totally understand why people first come to Nepal for the mountains, but return for the people.
How was your experience in Kathmandu? What else do you suggest doing on a 3-day trip to this Himalayan city?
